Finding the Right Paper
Choosing watercolor paper can be a little daunting in numerous ways.
What thickness do I get?
Should I go for cold-pressed or hot-pressed?
What even is “gsm” and does that matter?
Why is my paper getting so wrinkled?
Why is it not absorbing the paint?
The list goes on, and honestly, it can be frustrating not knowing what to do or what’s the best choice. I wanted to write this article starting with a little history lesson and a few pointers on figuring out what is the best watercolour paper for you when it comes to starting your projects.
Look no further as we unravel some of the complexities of watercolour paper…
A Little History of Watercolour Paper
Watercolour paper has been an essential medium for artists for centuries. The history of watercolor paper dates back to ancient China, where the Han Dynasty saw the invention of the first true paper around 105 AD. This invention slowly spread throughout the world towards the Middle East and then Europe and by the 15th century, European papermakers were producing high-quality paper that would eventually become the foundation for watercolour art as we know it today.
In the 18th century, the rise of watercolour painting as a recognized art form led to the development of specialized watercolour papers designed to meet the unique needs of watercolour artists. This evolution in paper technology allowed for greater control over the medium and contributed to the flourishing of watercolour art in the centuries to follow.
Understanding Watercolour Paper
When it comes to choosing the right watercolour paper, it's crucial to understand the different types available and their properties:
Thickness and Weight: Measured in grams per square meter (gsm), paper weight indicates its thickness. Common weights for watercolour paper range from 190 gsm to 638 gsm. Heavier paper (300 gsm and above) is less likely to buckle or warp when wet, making it a better choice for heavy washes of water & paint.
Cold-Pressed vs. Hot-Pressed: These terms refer to the texture of the watercolor paper:
Cold-Pressed (NOT): Also known as "NOT" (as in not hot-pressed), cold-pressed paper has a slightly textured surface. This texture holds water and pigment well, making it a popular choice for beginners and those who enjoy a more textured finish.
Hot-Pressed: This watercolour paper is smooth and has a fine texture, ideal for detailed work and techniques requiring fine lines. Thicker (heavier paper) can absorb water well, some hot-pressed papers are not designed for this and water can sit on top, so make sure to double-check the type. Hot-pressed is great for detailed illustrations that require a little less water, and more finer details as you won’t have the texture of the paper that you get in cold-pressed paper.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter): This metric tells you how much a square meter of the paper weighs. Higher gsm means thicker and more absorbent paper, which is crucial for water-heavy techniques. For watercolour, a minimum of 300 gsm is recommended to prevent buckling.
Paper Composition: Watercolour paper can be made from wood pulp or cotton. Cotton papers are generally higher quality, offering superior absorbency and durability, while wood pulp papers are more affordable and suitable for practice or beginners.
Choosing Watercolour Paper
Choosing the right watercolour paper depends on your technique, style, and personal preferences:
Beginners: Start with cold-pressed, 300 gsm watercolor paper. It's versatile and forgiving, allowing you to experiment without worrying too much about the paper quality.
Detailed Work: Opt for hot-pressed watercolor paper if you plan to do detailed, intricate paintings. Its smooth surface is perfect for fine lines and detailed work.
Heavy Techniques: For techniques involving heavy washes or lots of water, go for a heavier watercolor paper (450 gsm or more) to avoid warping.
Professional Quality: Cotton watercolor paper is the best choice for professional-quality work. It offers excellent absorbency and durability, ensuring your artwork lasts over time.
Personally, I like 250gsm and 300gsm slightly textured paper because it doesn’t buckle and handles water well. The texture adds an interesting element to my paintings. If I’m working on more illustrative pieces that require a smooth surface, I go with 250gsm - 300gsm hot-pressed paper and tape it down to preserve the shape.
Prepping Watercolor Paper
Properly prepping your watercolor paper can make a significant difference in your painting experience:
Stretching: If you’re using lighter watercolor paper (less than 300 gsm), consider stretching it before painting. Wet the paper and tape it to a board, using gum tape, and allow it to dry taut. This prevents warping and ensures a flat surface. (I would usually do with large pieces)
Taping: For heavier watercolor paper, simply taping the edges to a sturdy surface can prevent minor warping. Use artist’s tape to secure the paper and create clean edges.
Priming: Some artists like to prime their watercolor paper with a light wash of water before starting. This can help with even absorption and prevent blotching.
Finding the right watercolour paper is a journey of discovery and experimentation. As you gain experience, you’ll develop preferences for specific types and brands that suit your style and techniques. Don’t be afraid to try out different papers and see how they affect your work. I would always recommend getting paper samples and trying out loads of different types of paper to see what works best for you. With the right knowledge and a bit of practice, you’ll find the perfect watercolour paper to bring your watercolor creations to life.
Happy painting!